10-14 May 2006

We decided to spend four days in the center of Rome, so we left Monte Sacro around 11:30 using an Uber because the local taxis were not responding at all. We thought maybe this was because it was Sunday morning and Mothers Day to boot.

We were wrong. Our Uber came from the city center on a route that seemed offbeat and we soon learned why. A marathon tied up much of the central city. The marathon started at 10:00 am. (Italians do not get up early.) The Uber driver took us as far as he could and dropped us off along the Tiber next to one of the police barricades but still a mile from our Airbnb.

We crossed the boundary on foot with all our luggage and were fortunate to flag down a taxi inside the restricted area. The driver was not sure he could get us to our lodging, but after a circuitous route that took us through many narrow streets, we made it. He told us he has been driving a taxi in Rome for more than 25 years. We applauded and gave him a generous tip.

Lodging

Bonnie found a great location central to major sites in Rome. We were a five-minute walk from the Pantheon and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, and not much farther from Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori, and the Trevi Fountain. (We avoided the chaos at the latter.) The street containing the Airbnb is remarkably quiet, and the apartment is well appointed with lots of light and mirrors to make up for its lack of windows. And it has a washing machine!

Roman Wanderings

Taxicabs

We learned that taxis in Rome are privately owned. Although they are connected through a shared app, they are not part of a large company as in the US. We think this results in a better-kept cab. But sometimes getting a cab feels like the Wild West. Some drivers want cash only, or quote ridiculous prices if you want to pay by card. Many don’t start the meter. We learned to cope.

The best part of trips by taxi is the conversations with drivers. One young driver told us she is the third generation in her family to drive a cab in Rome. We asked her about the small four- to six-seater open-air vehicles we now see giving tours around the city. She lamented that they were taking the place of horse-drawn carriages. Progress we think. Another explained that even though the traffic is overwhelming to others, he remains positive and tranquil. Some of his friends get upset that he never gets upset. All good.

Other observations by drivers: Yes, it was more crowded last year for the Jubilee, but religious pilgrims don’t spend much money. . . . This May is as crowded as June because of the two-week Italian Open tennis tournament. But many of the spectators are young and don’t spend money on taxis. . . . There are a few less tourists from the US and Canada now because of the war.

Another Day of Wandering

Angela Caputi

For Bonnie, no trip to Rome is complete without a visit to Angela Caputi’s jewelry shop near the Spanish Steps. Angela’s selections change seasonally always offering new choices. The clerk at the shop remembered us when we first visited shortly after the shop opened in Rome in 2019. We shared our photo of Bonnie with Angela and the clerk insisted we take a few photos together.

Borromini? Bernini?

Borromini and Bernini were rival architects during the baroque design period. Bonnie put together an index card to help us when we visited a few of the roman baroque churches, fountains, and monuments in Rome. Came in handy!

San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane

This small church, Borromini’s first solo project, raised his status as an architect and is said to be the foundation of Baroque architecture. The undulating facade is a knockout. Borromini volunteered to design the church for free.

Church of Gesù

Mother church of the Jesuits, 1584. Funded by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (of the Villa Farnese we saw outside Rome), the grandson of Pope Paul III who was the pope who authorized the founding of the Jesuits. By Vignola and Della Porta.

More Wanderings

National Gallery Barberini Corsini

Hosting an exhibition of Bernini’s sculpture and his relationship with his client Pope Urban VIII (Maffeo Barberini)

Osteria Romana

We ate here several times during our last trip and were eager to return. Charming service and satisfying food. (In Rome Bonnie orders artichokes every day when they are in season. Both alla Romana, steamed, and alla Giudia, fried.) Robert tried unsuccessfully to order punterelle salad. Out of season.

Chiesa Sant’Ignazio di Loyola

L’Eau Vive Ristorante

Our friend Isabella Rossellini recommended this restaurant to us (and her thousands of fans). She used to come with her mother when she was growing up. More recently Isabella brought Stanley Tucci. The small, simple restaurant is run by nuns of the Family of the Missionary Workers of the Immaculate who run missions around the world. The menu, while French, reflects the national origins of the nuns. Several are Vietnamese.

The Last Wanderings in Rome

Colosseo Metro Stop Museum

While expanding this metro stop, archaeologists, predictably, uncovered ancient Roman artifacts. Since December 2025 the objects have been on display on several levels of the enormous station, although we noticed crews of workers were continuing to add to exhibits while we were there.

Perhaps most interesting are the household items found at the bottom of 28 wells, up to 30 meters deep, that supplied residents in this area with water before aqueducts. Artifacts and sculptures are beautifully displayed with videos in the underground station—an unusual free public museum. We look forward to the larger museum that will be opened nearby when the Piazza Venezia metro station is completed.

Last Meal in Rome

Delightful meal. Welcoming staff.

Colazione

Next Stop — Glasgow, Scotland