21-23 August 2026

This is a two-stop post. First to Hofn and then on to Seydisfjordur
On the Way to Höfn











Glaciers
We entered the territory of massive volcanic landscapes and glaciers. Yes, they coincide. Route One skirts along the southern edge of the Vatnajokull glacier on a narrow strip of flat land beside the ocean. At 3,000 square miles, this is the largest glacier in Iceland and covers eight percent of the island. It is now part of a national park. We drove across the outflow delta, which is 50 square miles. If the landscape is not fine black volcanic sand, it is rocks covered with a grayish moss. Very dramatic.
This is also the area of Iceland with many one-lane bridges. This keeps replacement costs low because bridges are frequently washed out by huge water flows caused when volcanic activity under the glacial ice heats up to create massive melts.














Close Up of Glaciers—Fagurhólsmýri










Icebergs Anyone?
We were not sure what to expect at this spot, which our guidebook said had ice floating in the river. We were startled to see mini-icebergs. Made Robert think about having a gin and tonic. Lots of visitors stop here, and the lagoon has steady traffic of kayaks, Zodiacs, and other sightseeing boats.









Hofn Lodging






A Walk Around the Harbor and Dinner
Hofn is a working fishing town without much charm except for the harbor. But many tourists stop here because there are few other places to spend the night along this coast. Disconcertingly, our mediocre guesthouse accommodations were the most expensive of our trip. But, unexpectedly, the Pakkhus restaurant was bursting with activity and serves impressive, upscale meals. We had an hour wait for dinner, but it was worth it.
We were amazed by the huge size of the fishing trawlers in the harbor, sized no doubt for the North Atlantic Ocean.















On the Way to Seydisfjordur
We transitioned from glacier country to fjord country on this leg of travel. The road zigzags around them on the way up the coast to the artsy little harbor town that was our destination.










Whooping Swans
Our timing was good to see lots of these migratory Whooping swans.
























Lodging in Seydisfjordur
This small harbor community has 670+ people, a ski area, a ski jump, and services for summer visitors. Lots of Italians taking advantage of the cooler climate escaping Italy’s hot summer. But back to the town. Very picturesque. Lot of color in the small, historic wood buildings—bright red, yellow, green, and blue. Not yet overrun with blocky new hotels or apartments.
Robert commented to a young housekeeper in our guesthouse that he woke up to a lot of loud conversation outside at 4:30 AM. It was bright sunlight by then and he could see about seven people, three with bicycles. He wondered who would get up that early. The housekeeper, an Icelander, explained that they were not getting up but returning from a Saturday night of partying, common during the longer days of summer punctuated by warm weather.








A Beer and then Dinner






Wandering











Breakfast





Next Stop—Akureyri!