01-06 May 2026

We visited Ravenna in 2019 and decided we wanted to return. The historic city center is compact and easy to navigate. Everything is within a short walk. On weekends and evenings, lots of people are strolling the pedestrian streets.

The city is just an hour east of Bologna, close to the Adriatic Sea. So many people would be surprised by how much the food changes. In Ravenna we see cappelletti taking dominance over tortellini and the emergence of piadina (a flat bread) that we did not see in Bologna. The climate is a bit different too. Hot during the day. Cool in the evening.

But the most notable signature of Ravenna is its collection of mosaics—in Byzantine churches, street signs, and all sorts of souvenirs. To say that Ravenna celebrates its mosaics is an understatement. Our visit in 2019 included a private two-hour class to make mosaics that resulted in a ring and earrings for Bonnie. (This was before Robert sported an earring.)

If you are interested in the unusal history and culture of Ravenna, click on this link to our 2019 post:

Ravenna

Lodging

Mosaics Anyone?

Citta Amica Delle Donne

City that is a friend of women. About a decade ago these mosaics were created as part of a campaign to end violence against women. They are posted at the doorways of many businesses and homes in the city. We have one in San Francisco, too.

Mercato Coperto

Bonnie remembers seeing the splendid mercato building in the midst of renovations when we were last here. We aren’t overwhelmed with the results. A little too slick. A few more fruits and vegetables and less spritzes would be good.

Wandering … and Drinking … and Eating

Mausoleo of Galla Placidia

This small building claims first place among Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna. Galla Pacifica, daughter of a Roman emperor, had it built for herself, although in the end she died and was buried in Rome. Its starry sky and doves are widely reproduced and recognized worldwide. The space is quite small, and each group of visitors is allowed ten minutes to take it in. We enjoy seeing it every time.

On the same property stands the Basilica of San Vitale, a fascinating eight-sided church built in the sixth century when Ravenna was the center of the Western Roman world. So many mosaics!

Basilica of San Vitale

More Wandering

Neoniana Baptistry

National Museum Containing the Archbishops’ Chapel

Post Office—Success!

Barbara’s Mosaic Studio

We took an afternoon mosaic class with Barbara Liverani in 1999, so we wanted to drop by and say hello. She remembered us! Her studio is going strong. We were happy to see that since we special ordered two mosaics of pears in 2019—her first—she has kept them in production and has sold quite a few. It was great to meet again. Richard L suggested we commission a lemon. We will!

Rocca Brancaleone

Dante

Did we tell you that Dante lived in Ravenna for the last years of his life? When he died, the Pope directed Ravenna to send his bones to Florence, his home city, the city that exiled him for his political stance. Instead, the monks in Ravenna hid the bones. The bones were lost, then rediscovered in the 1800s and eventually enshrined in a proper tomb. Florence would still like to have them, so every year Florence sends olive oil to keep the flame at his tomb burning.

Tomba di Dante

La Casa di Dante

Museo Dante

La Gardela

Second time. We think we were the only foreigners eating there. Great selection of traditional dishes.

Colazione

Teenage Fashion

In almost every museum we visit, we wade through school groups on field trips. Bonnie notices that the pants on both boys and girls are nearly all black with perhaps a few jeans in the mix. Tops are almost as simple and neutral. But when the students turn around, the backpacks might be neon psychedelic surprises.

Next Stop — Cugini a Roma, But Palazzo Farnese First