09-18 October 2019

Venice challenges everyone’s navigation skills unless they were born and raised here. Google maps are useful up to a point, but you need to interject logic and memory. Do I turn to the right at the store with the gloves on display? Or do I proceed to the yellow rusted sign that points to the Rialto in two opposite directions? After a while you gain confidence about where to go, only to find that you indeed took the wrong turn.

Even with the hustle of Venetians going to and from work and on errands, Venice is spectacular in a quiet way. The autumn light in the evenings casts a patina over the multi-colored buildings and the aqua green waters. Varied street lighting creates corridors of darkness that often erupt with window displays of any-sort-of what-you-believe-to-be-Venetian goods.

Just be sure to locate yourself away from the centers of activity, like St. Mark’s or the Rialto, because there the streets are filled to the brim with tourists, many in groups from cruise ships.

Venice. We have been here before on short visits, but this time we stayed for nine days, which eased the pressure of trying to see lots of sights in a short period. It also allowed Bonnie to sleep late most days.

Views from our Kitchen Window

If Robert was fast, he could capture the changing scenes outside our kitchen window. The sound of boat traffic going by started with early morning store deliveries and construction workers. Later in the day, we would see the occasional gondola interspersed in the boat traffic. Very pleasant.

Getting Around

Getting around Venice likely involves roller luggage, a porter, water travel, and of course feet. We parked our car in a massive parking structure on the Tronchetto island, near the cruise ships. From there, we took a people mover to Piazzale Roma, from which we made a 30-minute walk to our apartment. The route involved a few bridges that required us to hand carry our luggage up and down the steps. But not a big deal. People with lots of luggage or great distances to travel use porters. Robert would see them busily at work in the early morning hours while he was having a cappuccio and brioche (cappuccino and cornetto).

The vaporetti are the main public transit system. Think of a bus on the water. Difficult to figure out the routes at first, but not bad once you got the hang of it. One 60-euro ticket was good for seven days. Well worth the price. The boats slide in and out of yellow-banded floating waiting areas and load on either side of the boat depending on where the stop is enroute. The people in charge use ropes to secure the boat and then offer their stable arms to the elderly stepping off the boat. Bonnie frequently saw older folks extend their hand in anticipation of this service.

Wanderings

Wanderings—1962

Of course Robert is including some pics from the family trip in 1962! We know you want to see them! After viewing what Venice is like today, we are amazed at the large number of pigeons and the few number of tourists in San Marco Square. Note also the small number of boats on the Grand Canal. Things change.

Coca Cola

Robert remembers seeing this poster either in 1962 or 1968. Pigeons and corn were the key ingredients. He saw this hanging in a cafe in Vincenza and took a pic for old times sake.

Burano

Burano is known for lace and there is a lot for sale there! It is also known for its brightly colored houses.

Murano

Murano. Glass. Murano. Glass.

How much is a cappuccino and cornetto in Venice?

It depends. Robert has paid as little as 2.50 euros and as much as 5.50 euros. Turns out it depends partly on the time of day. He was told that after 9:00 AM, the price increases. He was also told by a local that it depends on whether you are a tourist. There seems to be a sliding scale. The price does seem to stablize after you go to the same place two or three days in a row.

Spritz—What to Know

You can order a spritz anywhere Italy. Usually they offer you an Aperol spritz. You can also have one with Campari and in Venice with Cynar. We find the Aperol too sweet and Campari too strong. At home, we use an aperitivo called Cappelletti because it tastes like what we have drunk in the Veneto on prior trips. Robert searched all over Italy for this and even contacted the company, which was rather evasive about where to find it. He did not find it. No one seemed to know of it.

In Venice you can have a spritz made with the aperitivo called Select. When you order your Spritz Select, be sure to order it with prosecco, otherwise you might get it mixed with water only. Costs less, but not the same. Many places include a few tidbits to eat too.

Cucina a Casa

One of Robert’s wishes was to get an apartment in Venice with a kitchen so he could buy fish at the Rialto Mercato in the morning (fish available Tuesday through Saturday) and cook it for dinner. The fish was always fresh, and the costs were about half of what we pay in the US. Robert only wishes he knew more of the fish that they offered. Next time.

Mangiamo Fuori (Eating Out)

Gelaterie

No need to worry. Bonnie continues her (re)search for the best non-dairy chocolate gelato.

Next —Excursions in Venice!