Macerata

17-19 September 2019

We are awarding Macerata a Mini Wow!

We define Wows and Mini Wows as experiences that offer an unusual surprise for us. This can be by the magnitude of the experience, by something we never knew before, or by the pleasantness or characteristics of people we encounter. Going beyond our expectations is a must.

So after arriving in Macerata and circling the town twice to find our hotel with no success, we stopped a young, pink-cheeked police officer for directions. Not only did he give us directions, he waited while we parked in a piazza and then walked us to the hotel lobby, chatting about the local museums and sites. He spoke English well and when we asked how he learned, he didn’t give the usual answer that he took 12 years of English in school and then learned to speak it by watching American television. Instead, he pulled out his phone, pulled up the ABC television app, and said he watched Good Morning America with Jenna Bush. (She is actually on NBC’s The Today Show.) Robert wishes he could do the same with a RAI app.

When we walked into the hotel, the clerk teased us about our police escort and then proceeded to walk with Robert to the car out in the piazza to drive it for us through the twisting alley to the hotel. We could not have had a better start to our stay.

Now let’s talk about Macerata.

Macerata is a city of 42,000 with a disproportionately large university student population of 13,000. The students do not dominate the town but they do congregate on several streets and in the central plaza, keeping things lively all day.

We happened to find the town’s terrific information center, open just a month, and told the fellow behind the desk that it was the best we had seen in Italy. Their displays went beyond the normal brochures by including local food, drink, books, road maps, and even videos. Because of the enthusiasm of the fellow at the desk, we learned that for 10 euros, we got access to all the museums, which are excellent, a guided tour of the several places closed to general admission, and entry to the unusual arena where they hold a famous summer opera festival. The art museum was great because it emphasized art by local artists. Impressive work. Macerata is doing well in promoting itself.

Before the trip some Italian friends frowned when we told them we were going to Macerata and asked “Why?” But we found Macerata a great place to visit. Instead of our two nights, make your stay three.

Wanderings

Our hotel
View from outside the wall.
Pizza ramp
The restored planetary clock follows the measurements of time as when it was first designed in 1571. Note the movement of the planets.
Video!
Death and funeral notices. A familiar sight throughout Italy. Robert likes it.
The travertine promenade shines in the setting sunlight.
The medieval wall is intact and quite tall in some areas.
Old walls used for housing.
The weekly mercato takes place in both of the town’s two main squares and wraps around part of the city wall.
Jeff: Hmmmmm

Sferisterio Opera Festival

A well-known opera festival takes place in Macerata every summer. The location is an elegant sports arena built in the 1820s. The distinctive half-circle design is simple, making the arena adaptable beyond its original function as a venue for a form of team hand ball. Architects take note. Today the stadium seats 2,500, making it possible to hire major talent to perform here.

Palazzo Buonaccorsi

This musuem was having a Bauhaus exhibit intertwined with 15th century art. Nice contrast.

Caricature of Jose Sert.
Madonna with child, 1470.
Adrian S., Luciana S., and Mark N.: This painting is titled Polenta Marchigiana (1927). After a closer look, Robert realized there are no dishes, so it is polenta sulla spianatora. Not only that, but there is a loaf of bread untouched and a jug of wine with no glasses visible . . . . no doubt not to be eaten or drunk until after one finishes the polenta, as Abramo and Adrian insisted.

Museo Palazzo Riccardo

This library is filled with old books, some dating back to when the Jesuits started it.

Cibo e bibite

In case you are wondering what our trunk looks like.

Next stop—Pescara!

Serra Sant’Abbondio – Walk, Eat, Drink, Walk, Eat, Drink, Sleep

20 – 26 April 2019

Rome to Serra

Tested the Peugeot heading northeast out of Rome using the built in navigator toward the old Sabbatini house at Corso Dante Alighieri, 15; Serra Sant’Abbondio, a small hill town in Le Marche. Arrived four hours later greeted by Adriana and Gino, who had already arrived, stocked the refrigerator, and hung Italian and American flags out the windows, in honor of the new citizen, Robert.

Adriana and Gino Secondo arrived a few days earlier to air out the house and fill the fridge with local goods! Marta and Luciana arrived about 20 minutes later. Dario, Marta’s brother, arrived by train from Parma where he works. His friend Michele drove Dario from Fano. After a brief visit with the family, Dario went out for a night with his friends. Dario says he got back at 3 AM. His mom says it was 5:30. (We believe his mom.)

The Family Home

The three-story stone house, just inside the town walls, has been the family since 1700, with each generation undertaking renovation/expansion—addition to the back, expansion of the top floor. The ground floor ceiling of the cantina has large timbers that support stone for the floor above. Nonno Delfo believed this original structure dates back to 1200. Adriana recently undertook renovation of the facade. Removing the plaster revealed stone, and lots of repair made the place fit the historic character of the commune.

Family home with restored facade. Grazie Adriana e Gino Secondo.
View from outside.
View of ceiling on the second level where we eat and enjoy the fire
View of the ceiling from the cantina (ground level)
View of the ceiling timbers in the cantina

Pasqua (Easter) in Serra

At 9:30 pm mass up the street on the evening before Easter, they lit the new candle for the year from an outside fire. The whole event took two hours. The good news is that everyone could sleep in the next morning, rising to munch on all the food Adriana prepared for Easter breakfast, which lasted three to four hours reflecting the range of early to late risers. The lunch was bigger with lasagna, lamb, and coratella (a recipe typical of Rome–a mix of artichokes and the internal bits and pieces of a lamb—I won’t go into more detail). Delicious. La bandiera (Italian flag) inspired the desert cake.

One of the local vintners. Dad loved his sparkling red.
Una torta bandiera. Grazie Adriana e Gino Secondo!

The local anisette, made in Pergola

Permesso di Soggiorno

Bonnie filled out intricate forms for a Permesso di Sogiorno (the visa to stay longer than 90 days). She will be an expert when this is done. She has brought the required attachments: copies of her passport, marriage certificate translated into Italian, FBI clearance, proof of medical insurance, return plane ticket. After a call to the Questura (police) in Pesaro we learned that Bonnie required Robert to become a full time resident of Serra. As the married partner of an Italian citizen in Italy, Bonnie can gain permission to a stay for a long period of time. The result is that the family home is registered in Robert’s name. His cousins are now Robert’s guests in Serra. Robert will determine how much rent they will need to pay him. He offered a discount for extended stays.

We will submit the required paperwork for Bonnie in Pesaro when we return from Sicily. Stay tuned to find out how this turns out.

Il giorno normale

The typical day here for our cousins is breakfast around 9, lunch around 2, followed by dinner around 8:30. Bonnie goes to bed around 10, Robert 11, our cousins follow around 12:30 after playing cards. I gioveni (the youngsters) return from a night out around 5:30 AM. 

At the table 2019
At the table 1962
Adriana and Marta grilling sausage in the fireplace
Marta, Luciana (la madre), e Dario
Marta
Bonnie getting some sun and catching up on the NY Times
Starting to play cards at 11 PM
Dario
Gino Secondo fa un pisolino
Luciana keeps guard over Corso Dante Alighieri
Serra’s forno (bakery)
Luciana adds some euros to her PostePay card at the local tabacchi
Luciana fa un appuntamento immediamente con la parracchiere da Serra
Late afternoon spritzes
Late dinner at Il Paradiso. Crescia, salami, formaggio . . . to start.

Sheet or …?

We have spent lots of time coaching Luciana on English pronunciation and laughing at the difference in pronunciation between sheet and shit. We have advised her to ask for a piece of paper rather than a sheet. We too have had corrections. There is a difference between fico and figa/fica. Look it up.

Le Passeggiate (Walks) di Serra

Bonnie and Robert have taken long and short walks around the town enjoying the vistas, the old and new stonework, and chats with the Serrone. Weather is pleasant during the day, cold at night.

Leccia—one of the frazione of Serra
Leccia
Wild cyclamen
Fiume Cesano

Festa della Liberazione d’Italia

On 25 April, the Italians celebrate the liberation of Italy in 1945. We went to a lecture and concert at Fonte Avellana the night before. The next day, Serra held a brief ceremony at their monument to the fallen soldiers. On TV, they had many discussions about the current rise of the fascist movement in Italy showing clips of supporters of Mussolini.

We include a photo of Uncle Rico who was among the first US troops to enter Rome in June of 1944. He was in the advanced infantry, first landing in Sicily and Anzio.

Concert following the lecture at Fonte Avellana
Ceremony in Serra
June 1944- the liberation of Rome. Uncle Rico (Marchesin) from San Mateo, California, on the left. At the base of the steps to St. Peter’s (Vatican).